Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Music in Dakar

Going out in Dakar and listening to great music with friends. This has become one of my favorite things to do while I’m here. Its usually a very relaxed environment, and I have never been disappointed by a group. Plus, there are generally so many options to choose from, not only on weekends, but also on weekdays, and coming from Haslett, Michigan, having that variety feels like such a luxury.

I thought I would highlight 3 music acts that I’ve seen so far in Senegal. Most recently, a group of us went to see Souleymane Faye,  a Senegalese musician who has been playing in Dakar and throughout Senegal for the past 20 years. His music was kind of a mix of folk, R&B, and the blues, with Senegalese djembe (drums) providing the driving rhythm and jumping in for numerous drum breaks. We saw him at Just 4 You, one of my favorite clubs in the city. Also, we went with my roommate and landlady, who has been in and out of Dakar for 20 years and knows Souleymane Faye very well. Which meant I not only got to meet him, but I also shook his hand and had a chance to babble pathetically in French to him about how great he was. I was kind-of star struck. 







The next most recent group I’ve seen is a group called Four for Africa. They are an Italian-Senegalese funk and reggae group with a English lead singer that plays AMAZING covers of Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson, and Stevie Wonder. Yes that’s right. And the place we went to was literally 5 minutes from our house walking and the owner was a musician himself and got up to play with the band a couple times. We were pretty convinced we were the only people there who were not somehow connected to the band, and because it was mostly Senegalese and Italian people there, the common language seemed to be English that everyone was using – even though we were the only ones for whom English was actually our maternal tongue. It was a crazy experience – I almost at times felt like the concert was not even for us. But it was absolutely wonderful.

Check them out at this link: 





And finally, a group called Takeifa. A great blend of Senegalese mbalax and folk and a bit of rock. And the lead singer was super cute, my friend knew him, and we got a picture of us together. 





Adventures in Morocco


It has been awhile since I last posted. With the holidays, and a tour of family members that came through one by one through Dakar and met me in Morocco, the past month has been pretty busy. But having both parents come to Senegal and getting to take a vacation with Dad and Genevieve to Morocco was absolutely wonderful, and a great way to bridge for me my life in Senegal with my life and family in the United States.

I think the best way to describe Morocco and our experiences in the country is to post pictures. The country is absolutely beautiful, at least the parts of it that we saw, the food was delicious and had so much variety, and there were considerably more things to see in terms of history and architecture - a pleasant change from Dakar, where tourism is just not as developed and the countryside is less varied. 

Dad and Gen met me in Casablanca, where we spent one night and then took the train to Meknes. We stayed there for a couple days, went to the Roman ruins of Volubulis, and then headed east towards Fez. A couple days in one of the oldest cities of the Muslim world, and then we left for Marrakech, driving through the Middle Atlas mountains to get there. And after a week of traveling, I feel like I had barely seen any of the country, which seems to be a common feeling I get now when going to knew places. I would love to be able to spend at least a month in the country next time, it is so big and vast and clearly so diverse in terms of topography, ethnic groups, languages, climate, and FOOD. Here are some pics. 


Dad and Gen on the train to Meknes.



Dad and I at our Ryad (refurbished large homes used as hotels) in Meknes. The skyline was absolutely breathtaking, but it was bit difficult to photograph with people in the picture.



These two shots are from Volubilis; an ancient Roman city just north of Meknes that during Roman times was one of the southern-most posts for the Roman empire. The ruins and mosaics were cool, but what was cooler was the location - nestled in the mountains and with olive groves all around. The ruins were also right next to Moulay Idriss, one of the holy sites for the Tidjaani sect of Muslims (many of whom are in Sénégal).


Moroccan tea. Amazing. Very sweet, very minty with a lot of fresh mint, and incredibly hot. Similar to Senegalese attaaya (mint tea), but less strong and much more enjoyable when it isn't sweltering outside and you actually need something hot to warm you up.



Babouches!! Those who know me know my dangerous addiction to shoes (it nearly rivals my love for food) and babouches (these pointy-toed shoes in the background made from leather) were everywhere. I may or may not have purchased 12 pairs, but I can proudly say that only one pair were for me and the rest for friends in Sénégal. I'm such a good friend. 


Monkeys! To be more precise: barbary apes. These guys are found in the cedar forests in the Atlas Mountains. They are pretty well domesticated now because tourists can buy and feed them peanuts, but I still had a lot of fun pretending to be a monkey. 


After a week in Morocco, the three of us came back to Dakar for a few days. My Dad and Gen met my host Rotary club at one of their meetings, as well as just about every other person I know in Dakar. And everyone fed us too. Needless to say, they left very full.


My Dad was in Senegal last time over 20 years ago. When there, on the island of Gorée he met a lovely woman who showed him around the island and talked to him about the history of the place. This woman owned a restaurant, one that is still there on Gorée, though she no longer is living. But here children were there and were incredibly touched by Dad's story, as we were. This is a picture with this woman's children and us outside her restaurant. 


Dad and I outside Hotel Miramar, the hotel Dad stayed in over 20 years ago. 


Now the rest of the photos will be unashamedly about food. 


Moroccan soup! Called harira, I had every chance I could get. Super cheap, hot and delicious, I am determined to figure out how to make it. 


This was the first food I bought in Morocco. A pomegranate, whole-grain baguette, 1kilo of olives, and 3 persimmons, all for about 25 duram, so about $3.50. I was happy. 


Our first breakfast in Casa. A beautiful, French spread with canned eggplant of all things that was a passed-down recipe from the woman who owned the B&B. They were sweet, spicy, and super flavorful and I was mildly annoyed she wouldn't give me the recipe.


This was one of my favorite experiences in Morocco. We were in Moulay Idriss and wanted olive oil, so we stopped at one of the olive presses and got a tour. The giant heaps of olives on the left are curing in salt, and the blue tubs are filled with olive oil. Someone ran out and found us a 2L bottle, and I got to smuggle fresh olive oil (which tastes so go) into Senegal for about $8. I was very, very happy. 



Moroccan crepes for breakfast.


Moroccan salads. That what was always on the menu, but that was just not enough words to describe the colors and spices.


Tajine world! These conical pots are used to make the dish also called tajine, which can be any variety of meats, vegetables, or fruits even slow cooked in these guys for at least 3 hours. We went to an outdoor market place where they are made and I picked one out to try using in Senegal.


Kefta! Grilled ground meat kebabs we got at a "truck stop" with our wonderful driver Abdel on our way to Marakech. This totally beats gas station food in the U.S. Plus, food in Morocco is served with salt and cumin instead of salt and pepper. What an amazing idea.


Moroccan persimmons. I may or may not have purchased 1/2 kilo and ate them all in one day (about 10).


Another Moroccan breakfast in one of our other Ryads. With olives.


This is the tajine, much less pretty once we had already dived into it, but still delicious. Couscous with layered vegetables, chicken and saffron. Yum! 

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Le Président National du MAJ Sénégal après la Marche 2011



Above is the link for MAJ Senegal's first uploaded video to our Youtube channel at MAJSenegal. Im still trying to figure out the features and posting videos takes awhile here, so keep checking back in for more updates and new videos.

This is a video of Pape Momar Mbaye, the National MAJ President in Senegal, right after the youth walk preceding the International Conference on Family Planning. He demands that youth play a bigger role in reproductive health policy and education, and why this is so important especially in Senegal.

Stay tuned for more updates and be sure to subscribe to our channel!

Thanks Adam for the suggestion; here's the link for the blog. Also, I will look into having subtitles added, though translating is quite a bit of work and you would be surprised how long it takes to translate 3 minutes of video word for word. I'll do my best.

http://www.youtube.com/user/MAJSenegal?blend=1&ob=video-mustangbase

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Sama yaay ci Sénégal

Immediately following the conference, well actually before the conference was even over, my mom arrived for a week. Being the incredibly flexible and adaptable woman that she is, she agreed to hop off the plane, rest a few hours, and then join her daughter for the closing ceremony of the Family Planning conference and meet my colleagues at ASBEF and fellow MAJ members.

While this day seemed rather chaotic, I think it was comparatively the calmest and least eventful of the days we had together in Sénégal. She was far more prepared than I was for the unbelievable show of kindness and hospitality that my friends, colleagues, and host family presented her with. However, I don’t think any amount of planning could have prepared our stomachs for the sheer amount of food we were fed. Most of Mom’s visit with me involved going to different friends homes and being fed delicious food to the point of bursting, then being handed fruit and beverage when we literally could not fit in anymore rice or couscous. But the trip was absolutely wonderful. We had the time to do some sightseeing at Gorée Island (for more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorée), we did a lot of visiting, and we even had the chance to make a Christmas meal for ourselves and some of my friends here – which included pumpkin pie and cranberry sauce because mom brought canned pumpkin and cranberries from the States. She’s amazing.

It also just happened that Tamxarit – the Muslim New Year in Sénégal – took place during Mom’s trip as well. This meant that my host family had yet another opportunity to stuff us with delicious food, this time Senegalese couscous made from millet, with a red tomato sauce, chicken, sheep, and beef. It was quite extravagant and, needless to say, filling.

MAJ and ASBEF gave my mom one of the most touching welcomes. The Executive Director invited all personnel and youth volunteers to the clinic for refreshments, a formal presentation on MAJ for my mom, and then a period where they showered us both with compliments, which then I had to translate to Mom. Its very embarrassing, actually, to have to translate compliments about yourself.

All in all, a completely overwhelming and absolutely incredible week that I don’t think either of us will ever forget.



Mom at the market with Khady, the vendor I always go to who gives me the best deals and usually throws in a pepper or zucchini for free.



Mom and I at Gorée.


Lunch. Or what was lunch.


A series of absolutely adorable photos with my host family the night of Tamxarit.  





Mom with my husband, the chicken vendor, as we pick out the two chickens destined for our Christmas feast. 


Me with my mom and one of my surrogate mothers in Sénégal, my Wolof and Fulani teacher.


Preparing Christmas Dinner. In order starting with the dish closest to Mom: candied yams, gravy, squash, stuffing, potatoes for mashing.


PUMPKIN PIE! I was very excited.

Us with the chickens.


The chefs of the evening! Lia on the left and Giulia on the right, both my housemates.


Candied yams. They received mixed reviews for the evening, just as they do every year in the States. Oh well, more for me.

The Christmas feast.


Mom on the street enjoying one of my favorites, beignet (deep-fried mini doughnuts), and a 10 cent cup of Nescafé.

Mom and I with MAJ volunteers. Thank you to everyone who made my mom's stay so incredible. Jéréjef waay! 

The International Conference on Family Planning

Every time I begin a blog entry, I seem to apologize for not having written in a long time and then justify it by the fact that so much has happened in the past few weeks that I had no time to process it, let alone write about it. Well that is also true this time around. This may just become my pattern, as incredible things just seem to keep on happening!


Before the conference even started, MAJ along with 11 other Senegalese youth organizations planned and held a walk for greater youth access to family planning services. I was incredibly proud of MAJ’s ability to organize and mobilize the over 300 youth that participated in the march, and I think it was also a very good opportunity for these organizations to network among themselves and decide how they could work together on future programs and endeavors.

What was completely wonderful of ASBEF was that they let me come along to the actual conference as one of the 50 Senegalese youth participants, so I had the opportunity to attend all of the sessions as well as take part in youth activities. I had a badge that said my name and that I came from Senegal (which got a lot of strange looks when I was walking around speaking very American English), but I was very proud to be there representing ASBEF and the youth of MAJ. I also felt lucky that, for once, I had a definitive skill that I could use to help promote MAJ and their activities. Many of the conference participants came from American organizations and NGOs, so this was a chance for me to do as much PR as I could for MAJ youth in English, and within the channels of American professionalism.

The conference was sponsored by the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation as well as Johns Hopkins School of Health, among other partners. It brought together family planning professionals from around the world to present their research, programs, and technology to their peers, and was also an excellent means for Senegal and Senegalese family planning programs to be highlighted. The conference had a deliberate youth focus, with 4 young people from West Africa chosen to speak at the opening and closing addresses – one of whom was the President of the MAJ club in St. Louis (the second largest city in Senegal). The ASBEF/MAJ family was incredibly proud. MAJ youth attended sessions as well as got involved with specific activities for youth, notably a political dialogue between youth participants and the First Ladies of Sénégal, Mozambique, and Namibia to come up with constructive demands for policy change relating to youth and their reproductive and family planning rights. 

For me personally, the conference was like Family Planning Christmas. There was an overwhelming number of sessions, posters, abstracts and presentations that interested me, not to mention the over 2000+ participants themselves who came from all over the world to network and share with their fellow professionals. There were information stands from represented organizations, and I took almost everything they had to offer – which now means that a small corner of my room is being renovated into a family planning library. Let me know if you need any information! 

Here are some pictures from the Pre-Conference and Conference activities.


Getting ready for the walk. The sign reads, "Adolescent and Youth Access for Reproductive Health Services."


Beginning the walk from the Place de l'Obèlisque (pictured in the background). The walk was probably about 2 km long, going down one of the main roads leading to downtown, and ending at the large RTS Senegalese TV station downtown.


MAJ members and I gearing up for the walk!



My personal favorite of the posters and signs. I carried this around with me during the walk when I wasn't taking pictures.



This slogan became the theme for youth throughout the conference. It reads "Your life, your rights, your contraception."

On the back of all the t-shirts worn by participants - "Adolescent and Youth Access to Reproductive Health Services: A priority" 

The rest are pictures from the conference itself. Here is the opening ceremony with President Wade giving the opening address.

 This is the tent for the political dialogue session between Senegalese youth and the 3 First Ladies, as well as a African Women Leaders organization.


The First Lady of Mozambique.


The First Lady of Namibia.
 The First Lady of Sénégal.

Youth were assigned to tables with members of this African Women Leaders organization. During the session, there were breakout sessions intended to allow youth to discuss and advocate for their ideas on how policy should be changed to be more inclusive and youth friendly in terms of reproductive health and family planning rights. This is a MAJ member reporting on his breakout session.


Another MAJ member reporting out.


A photo with the 3 First Ladies.


 Before the conference, ASBEF and MAJ held a competition for the best art submissions by youth related to family planning. The winning pieces were then sold during the conference. Here is a conference participant with his purchase!


Me begin stoked to be at the closing ceremony.

The President of MAJ St. Louis, Pape Magotte Ndiaye, giving his closing address. 


An entry wouldn't be complete without some food! Here are some photos of the ceebu jën (the national dish in Senegal made with fresh fish, rice, tons of vegetables, and a myriad of amazing sauces) made my housemate's boyfriend. While Mamadou repeatedly tried to convince me that he cooks all the time, my housemate confirmed that this was indeed his first attempt at ceebu jën. And what an accomplishment. Truly - magnifique!


The aerial view - note the abundance of vegetables, fish in the center, and sauces around the edge. So, one is made from hibiscus leaves (the green sauce in the pink cup), the sauce in the yellow dish is the juice the fish was cooked in. Then there's lime around the plate, another sauce made from nettatoo, a fishy-smelling (but yummy) seed I've only ever seen in Senegal, and xoin (the crispy burned rice found at the bottom of the bowl).


And this is the picture we're sending to Food and Wine. Bon appétit!