Just got back from a week in the Casamance, the region of Senegal south of the Gambia. The region has been officially in rebellion for nearly 30 years, and there continues to be occasional violence between rebels and armed forces in the area. However, because of the Casamance’s natural beauty and incredible beaches, there is clear potential for a thriving tourist industry. As a result, the government has done a lot to make sure that much of the Basse Casamance, the area south of the Casamance River, is safe to prevent any further damage to tourism.
My friends and I headed to Basse Cassamance by boat, an option that takes about 16 hours overnight and brings you to Ziguinchor, the capital and largest city of the region. We then took a sept-place (a common form of public transport with seven seats for people stuffed into a really, really old hatchback) directly to Cap Skirring, a resort town almost on the Guinea-Bissau border so that I could attend the annual Rotary Club Gala in the Casamance hosted by the Rotary Club of Ziguinchor.
I was invited to the Gala by my Rotary Parent in Dakar (pictured with me below), who also was incredibly sweet to find me a LOVELY room on the beach at the same hotel where other Rotary members were staying for the Gala. The Gala happens once a year and gives Rotarians from all over Senegal to come to the Casamance, discuss common projects together, and spend time together as a group. It was a wonderful opportunity for me to meet Rotarians from around Senegal, listen to great local music, and enjoy really good and really fresh seafood.
The Gala happens once a year and gives Rotarians from all over Senegal to come to the Casamance, discuss common projects together, and spend time together as a group. It was a wonderful opportunity for me to meet Rotarians from around Senegal, listen to great local music, and enjoy really good and really fresh seafood. Here's another picture of the entertainment that night.
And a couple pictures of the "cabin" (as it was called) of mine at the hotel Cap Skirring and the view of the beach.
After the Gala, my friends and I stayed another night in Cap Skirring, walking the beaches and doing a lot of swimming. These are the best beaches I have ever been to.
Then we went by car to a town called Elinkine where we hopped a boat to the Island of Kirabane, an island in the Casamance River. We stayed a night there in an auberge on the water. This is the kind of boat we hopped on - this shot was taken as we went to the island itself.
We then took another boat to a very remote part of the river coast called Point St. George. And we saw dolphins. Lots and lots of dolphins. They were jumping and playing right next to the boat practically. I was so happy, and I may have done a lot of squealing. However, I could not get any photos of them.
At Point St. George we stayed the night at the only lodging option on the island for tourists - a restaurant that offers to rent tents for 2,000CFA (about $4) a tent. We had a delicious meal of Caldou, a speciality of the Casamance with fresh fish and onion/lemon sauce, and then slept in tents on the beach. Just beautiful. In the morning, we headed towards the manatee sanctuary and even got to see a couple tails and heads come up above the water. Then I was really, really happy.
The tents at Pt. St. George.
Then began the less exciting part of the trip, to say the least. It was an expensive boat ride to Point St. George and people had reassured us that even though there was no public transport to the nearest down, there was a dirt road people took to the closest town from the Point. A hefty walk they said (about 9km), but people made it all the time. So we had a guide that took us halfway there to a giant, giant, giant tree called a fromageur in French – known as a kapok tree in English. The others proceeded to climb the tree with the gear to look out from the platform built around its base at the top. I however, made it up four rungs and panicked. This happened the last time I was in Senegal too and tried to climb a boabab. And yet again, it was terribly embarrassing at the time, and is now super funny. But at least I got a picture with the giant on the ground level.
Me and the tree.
Giulia, one of the braver members of the group.
With the tree behind us, we had 5 km left ahead to walk. It seemed easy at first, but it got hotter and hotter, and then we got lost a bit, but finally we found the only other person stupid enough to try to walk that distance during the middle of the day; a wonderful, wonderful man named Jean who let us follow him to M'lomp, the nearest village to the Point. By the time we made it there we were thoroughly stinky and bright red, but we made it.
Here's us on the fateful march.
And a final picture of the group, looking hot, sweaty, and cramped (But happy!) in a sept place.
All in all, a great trip that allowed me to do a bit of exploring outside of Dakar and meet up with the whole Senegalese Rotary community. But needless to say, I am very happy to be home again, with all the creature comforts of Dakar – including functional public transport!